THE COMPLETE BRA FITTING GUIDE
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Introduction
Wearing the right bra size is always important. You can have the most gorgeous bra but if you haven’t got your true size right, it won’t fit well and you will always feel uncomfortable. Also, if you measured yourself once before it doesn't mean you are set for life. Our breasts and body change in shape and feel over the course of our lives.
It’s good practice to measure your bra size every six months to ensure that you are still wearing the right size. A perfectly fitting bra supports not only your sisters, but also your back, shoulders, and neck. The right bra size improves your posture, makes you look fabulous and boosts your confidence and energy levels.
The perfect bra makes you feel like goddess. It’s comfortable, it supports you effortlessly with no pain or digging. It feels weightless and compliments your shape by creating a lovely feminine silhouette. Sadly, many ladies have never experienced this and many research findings show that most women would feel more comfortable or supported if they wear a different bra size or bra style.
For many of us all, discovering our true bra size have changed our life - true fact!
Through this fitting guide, we aim to equip you with the right knowledge to make sure that you can easily answer the following questions:
- Am I wearing the right bra?
- How do I measure my bra size?
- What bra style is the best for me?
How do I know if my bra fits well?
For starters, it’s a good idea to check if your current bras show signs that you are wearing the wrong size. By doing a few key checks, you’ll be able to find out if your current bra is true to your size.
Bra fitting rules are universal and apply to all bra types and brands. To establish if you're wearing the right bra, you need to perform a few checks by assessing your:
- Bra Band
- Bra Straps
- Bra Cups
- Bra Underwire
- Bra Gore
1. Bra Band
The bra back band, also known as the bra underband, is the part of the bra that provides most of the support to your body. The band does about 80% of the lifting of your bust, so you really want to get the band size right. The band size is the number part of your bra size and the cup size is the letter part of your bra size.
It’s important that the bra band sits firmly but comfortably against your back.
* Look into the mirror and see if your bra sits at the same level all around your body. In other words, the bra band should be horizontally wrapped around your back, in parallel to the front of the bra.
Is your bra riding up your back? Or are your breasts spilling out at the bottom of the bra?
- Try a bra with a smaller back size and a larger cup size
Does your bra band feel tight? Or does the band digs into your body?
- Try a bra with a larger back size and smaller cup size
When changing your band size for a better fit, in most cases you will need to change your cup size as well. We will cover this topic more later in this guide.
You should be able to pull the band two inches (or five cm) away from your back and half an inch (or one cm) from your side. No more, no less.
NOTE: A bra stretches over time when wearing and washing it. It’s advised when purchasing a new bra to have it fastened on the loosest hooks. This way you can adjust to tighter hooks over time, ensuring a proper fit for a longer lifetime.
2. Bra Straps
The bra straps should feel firm and comfortable on your body. They should support your breasts but not completely lift them as your back band should do the heavy lifting.
* Look in the mirror and check if the straps sit in parallel or with a slight V-shape on your back.
Straps should never slip down, dig into your shoulders, or leave marks. When straps dig into your body, your shoulders are taking the strain and your back band is not providing the support you need. If adjusting your straps fails to provide you with the right fit, you’re likely wearing the wrong bra size or bra style.
Do your straps fall down your shoulders? Do you still not have the right fit after tightening them?
- Try a larger band size and a smaller cup size
Do your straps feel too tight? Or do they dig into your shoulders?
- Try a smaller band size and a larger cup size
You should be able to fit two fingers under the straps when you pull upwards from your shoulders. No more, no less.
NOTE: Bra style can be an important consideration when your straps don’t feel right. For some breast shapes, a T-shirt bra or a full cup bra might be more suitable than a balconette bra, and likewise the other way around. If your straps keep sliding down, you can also consider buying a bra with straps that convert to a racerback. A good bra designed with the fuller bust or fuller figure in mind typically has extra wide straps that are padded for extra comfort.
3. Bra Cups
The bra cups, especially wired bra cups, should encapsulate your entire breast tissue with no spillage or gaping. The cup should follow the contour of your breast, sitting flat against the ribs, not digging into any part of your breast. The cup should have a smooth line, with no ridge or bulging at the top and the side of the cup end.
Usually, our sisters require a little helping hand when placing them properly in the cups. Scoop and swoop them into the cup to ensure an excellent fit. You can also lean a bit forward, lift and jiggle them in the right place and smooth out the sides.
* Look in the mirror and check if your entire breast fits snuggly in the cup without excess tissue spilling out on top or on the side, or leaving space underneath the cups. If the cup is even a bit too small for your breast it creates the unflattering and infamous quad-boob look. And you deserve better than that.
Are your breasts spilling out of your bra? And does your back band not feel firm?
- Try a smaller band size
Are the cups of your bra wrinkling?
NOTE: Putting bras in the washing machine also can make them wrinkle.
- Try a smaller cup size
Does your bra sit flush on your breasts? If not, do you experience bra gaps?
- In case of gaps, try a smaller cup size
Does your back band curl up or does it stand away from your body?
- Try a larger cup size
NOTE: Certain bra styles (like moulded T-shirt bras) might not be quite right for your shape and could be the reason why you experience gaps. Most of us have one breast bigger than the other and this also can present some fitting challenges. In these cases, you could consider a different style, like a stretch lace bra which moulds to your shape and creates a pleasing appearance.
4. Bra Underwire
When buying a wired bra, you can expect more bra structure and maximum support. The underwire of the bra runs around the underside of the cup. As with every part of a perfectly fitted bra, the wires should always feel comfortable. If the wires do hurt, you likely need a different bra size.
It’s important that the underwire sits flat on your ribcage and not on your breasts. The wire should lie flat against your chest between your breasts and go all the way around to your armpits. They should absolutely not dig into your body or rub against it, nor should the wires be poking out.
* Look in the mirror, lift your arms up high and check if your bra rides up your body. If your bra rides up, then the wires aren’t laying flat on your ribcage, you have to much room in the back, and you should try a smaller band size.
Is the wire sitting on your breast tissue?
All of your breast tissue should be enclosed in the bra cups.
- Try a larger cup size
Is the underwire digging between your breasts?
- Try a larger cup size
Is the wire poking you into the armpit?
- Try a smaller band size and a larger cup size
Is the wire not laying snuggly against your chest?
If so, this is likely due to one or two reasons.
1. The back band is too big and not firm enough.
2. The the cups are too small and your breasts are pushing the centre out.
- Try a smaller band size and a larger cup size
Does your back band feel firm but the wire is not following the shape of your breast?
The wire should not sit apart from where your breast tissue begins.
- Try a smaller cup size
NOTE: If your wires do sit on your breast tissue or touch your armpit, they can cause pain, irritation, or in more extreme cases, damage your breast tissue. For this reason alone, you should always carefully assess if your bra wires fit properly.
5. Bra Gore
The central bra gore, also known as the bra bridge, is the centre-front part of the bra, and is located in-between the cups. The gore should touch your chest and lie flat against the body. When purchasing a new bra, its important to check if this part fits properly. If it doesn’t sit right, you should consider changing your bra size.
* Look in the mirror and raise your arms, to the side, and above your head. Check if your gore feels comfortable and sits properly. It should rest on your chest at all times and not ride up.
Do you have a gap between the gore and your rib cage? Or does the gore sit on top of your breast?
- Try a larger cup size
Does the gore dig into your body?
- Try a smaller band size
NOTE: Every woman is different, and every breast is unique. So the fit and comfort of your gore will depend on the type of bra that you’re trying on. A full cup bra could provide you with a considerable different look and feel than a demi cup bra, even though they are the exact same bra size.
Get the right fit and buy a great bra
Bras are created with many components. All these parts need to work together to support and provide comfort to many parts of your body. Aside from using best practices in taking care of your bra, there is no replacement for buying a good quality bra. Especially if you are blessed with a fuller bust or a fuller figure. If your body needs the support, no cheap fix exists. Even if you got every part of a proper fitting right, it’s still recommended to buy from a bra brand known for its high-quality and comfort, as these bras are engineered and produced to give your body what it needs. On the bright side, outstanding bras last a lot longer than cheaper, inferior products.
Now you know everything about getting your bra fit right. It’s time to start measuring your bra size yourself!
